North Tenerife – moving, renovating and a new life in Buenavista del Norte

I haven't been here for a while, because for the past few months, one place has been completely absorbing my attention. One that's hard to describe, yet so easy to love.

It wasn’t any grand plan, rather a combination of circumstances and a bit of intuition that eventually led us to northern Tenerife – or more precisely, to its northwest 🙂 Where the island breathes more peacefully.

For several months now, I have been renovating a house in Buenavista del Norte and learning to live more slowly: closer to nature, closer to the ocean, and more in tune with the rhythm of local life than the calendar.

How it all started – our journey to the north of Tenerife

When we moved to Tenerife, for the first six months we lived in the north, in Icod de los Vinos , on the outskirts of a town located at an altitude of about 235–300 m above sea level.

We booked the place remotely and somewhat by accident – it was difficult to find a pet-friendly apartment. The house itself turned out to be very nice, and the apartment had amazing views from both sides. The decor left a lot to be desired, but at the time, we were able to overlook that.

It wasn't the fulfillment of a Canarian dream, however – in winter, the cold in the uninsulated apartment was unbearable. Despite this, the nature of northern Tenerife captivated me from the very beginning. The greenery, the scent of the air, the blue ocean, and the majestic slopes of Mount Teide – all of this made it difficult for me to leave this part of the island when we moved south.

Our first months in the North of Tenerife

Three years in the south of Tenerife – experience and contrast

We spent the next three years in San Isidro – a comfortable, practical, but uncharming town in the south of the island. It's a good place to live: close to the airport, shops, and a gym. But I missed the cleanliness, greenery, and tranquility that I so much enjoy in the north.

In the south, we also quickly became familiar with the Kalima phenomenon – a dry, hot wind from the Sahara that carries sand and dust suspended in the air. During the Kalima, the air becomes heavier, visibility drops, and the sky takes on shades of yellow and orange. This phenomenon is typical of the Canary Islands, but in northern Tenerife, it is felt much milder – the air is fresher, and the sky returns to "normal" more quickly.

Finding our dream place to live became our main focus—sometimes exciting, sometimes exhausting. We considered everything: an apartment in the south or a house in the mountains, closer to the beach or the city, in Santa Cruz or closer to nature.

Budget, location, atmosphere – every “pro” had its “but”.

Las Eras – noon without filters and the first lesson in renovation

In the meantime, we bought a small rental apartment in Las Eras , a quiet, local village in southeast Tenerife. We wanted to see what life was like in the less touristy south, closer to the "real," everyday island.

Las Eras was different: peaceful, full of islanders, fishermen, families, people who truly live there. We were convinced that the authentic Tenerife , without resorts and hotel zones, was closer to us – and our next steps slowly began to form in our minds.

Las Eras also taught us patience – because it was there that we learned what renovation in Tenerife really means.

The first jobs, surprises, "local deadlines," and a pace that has its own rhythm. This experience later proved very useful during the renovation in Buenavista – we already knew that nothing could be rushed on this island. You simply had to listen to it.

Returning to the North – a decision of heart and reason

At some point we sat down and decided what was really important to us:

• relatively flat (which is not easy in Tenerife...), because we both like sports and walking

• locally, away from tourists,

• close to nature and sports center ,

• good air , which is increasingly lacking in the south due to the increasingly frequent occurrence of the Kalima. Although it occurs throughout the island, it is felt much less in northern Tenerife.

  
  

Paradoxically, proximity to the ocean is no longer crucial – Las Eras showed us that living right by the water also has its drawbacks, such as constant moisture in the walls and air.

And then the topic of northern Tenerife came back. Because if you're looking for greenery, space, and peace, the north always appears on the list.

The first, longer meeting with Buenavista del Norte

We looked at a lot of properties until one day my husband convinced me to go to Buenavista del Norte , a town I'd only briefly visited. I wasn't convinced. After my experience in Icod, I thought the north was too difficult to live in.

However, I agreed – out of curiosity and with the thought that “all north and north are different” .

The first house we saw was beyond our budget. However, the owner, with typical Canarian hospitality, showed us around and showed us the amazing community gym right on the ocean , with views of the waves, cliffs, and sunset.

At that moment we realized that this could be "it."

Buenavista won me over with its peace, greenery and this strange energy of a place that seems to be at the end of the road – and at the same time very much in the middle of nature.

The microclimate of Buenavista del Norte is unique

Buenavista del Norte has a typical microclimate of northwestern Tenerife – mild, wetter and definitely greener than the south of the island.

Summer here starts later (in practice, often from September to November, though it can sometimes last longer) and is pleasant, with temperatures usually around 25–28°C, without oppressive heat. In winter, temperatures rarely drop below 18°C.

Clouds and short rains appear more frequently, which is why the area is so lush and green. Thanks to the Teno Mountains and the circulation of sea air, the sun shines here very often, and the rains are more fleeting than long-lasting.

The town is surrounded by the ocean and mountains of the Teno Rural Park, creating a natural balance between fresh sea air and a mountain microclimate – perfect for people who value nature, peace and cleaner air than in the drier southern part.

Fun fact

A little interesting fact: Buenavista del Norte , one of the oldest towns in Tenerife, really has an origin as beautiful as its name.

“Buena vista” simply means “beautiful view.”

When the first settlers arrived here over five hundred years ago, they were captivated by the Teno Cliffs, the open views of the ocean, the green valleys, and Mount Teide in the background. The classic exclamation is said to have been , "¡Qué buena vista!" – what a beautiful view! And so the name has stuck to this day.

The second part of the name – del Norte – was added later to distinguish the town from other names for "Buenavista" in the Canary Islands or Andalusia and to emphasize its location at the northern tip of Tenerife .

The town became formally known as Buenavista del Norte in 16th-century documents.

The house that found us alone

From that moment on, we began our detailed search for a house in the Buenavista area. We had several options listed, but we decided to look at one – one that looked rather average in the photos. Just another Canarian house in need of renovation.

By sheer coincidence (or perhaps something more), we arrived in town, stepped onto the terrace, and gazed out over Punta de Teno, the ocean, and the golf course . The decision was made in a matter of seconds.

The owner had such a warm and calm demeanor, and the house had such a positive energy, that we immediately knew this was it! We decided to sign the reservation contract that same day.

Thus began a new history for the old house. Casa Palmera Verde was born. – our little world in the northwest of Tenerife.

Did I have any doubts?

Of course. I wondered if I, accustomed to the pace of a big city, would cope in a small, close-knit community. That I would miss the city, the dynamism, the anonymity.

But it only took a few days after moving in to understand that everything here had a different rhythm and meaning. That the silence could be full of life, and the people – truly present.

That life in the north of Tenerife has a peace I've long been searching for. Seriously.

North Tenerife – a different climate, a different pace, a different happiness

Northern Tenerife has its own rhythm. The weather can change several times a day, but sun and rain create a natural balance. Greenery grows effortlessly, the air is fresher, and the sky boasts dozens of shades.

There is a lot of talk about the "Tenerife north-south" climate, but to understand it you simply have to experience it .

The North isn't "cold"—it's freshness . It's a balance between sun and shade, between movement and stillness.

I feel like Tenerife's climate can't be described simply. Its variability in such a small area simply has to be experienced. Only then do your mind and body begin to understand how different microclimates can coexist here and how naturally the weather changes depending on where you are on the island.

Buenavista del Norte is also a slightly different story.

For me, it is not just the "north of Tenerife", but the northwest and part of the so-called Isla Baja (A topic for a separate post). The climate here is also unique – warmer because it's closer to the ocean and the Teno Massif, which strongly influences clouds and winds. The sun shines frequently, the wind is usually moderate, and the clouds create a spectacle that never gets old.

This is a truly different, unique and very authentic Tenerife.

Today

Today we're renovating Casa Palmera Verde , and I truly feel like I've found my place. I'm working, creating, and learning the rhythms of the island. Sometimes I get my hands dirty with paint, finishing the house, and paying attention to the details to preserve the soul of a Canarian home while adding a little bit of our own.

We are also preparing a small apartment for people who would one day like to see this part of northern Tenerife through the eyes of its inhabitants.

And sometimes I just sit on the terrace and look at the mountains, the sun, and the ocean. And I think to myself that every day here really has meaning.

Our first months in Buenavista del Norte and Casa Palmera Verde

If you'd like to keep up with our lives in northwest Tenerife and the ongoing transformation of Casa Palmera Verde, check out my Instagram @tenerife.essence. And if you prefer a quieter, coffee-in-hand experience, sign up for my newsletter. Every now and then, I'll send you a little piece of our "north" straight to your inbox ✉️

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